scottish-autograss.com

Hello Everyone

I'm wondering if I can ask any of you clever people for help since my mechanical ability extends as far as changing spark plugs, kicking tyres and going "Hmmmmmm" as if I know what I'm Hmmmming about.

Firstly, my clutch is very stiff, but not all the way through its travel (which makes me think it's not the cable), just initially, it takes a real effort to get moving, once it's going it's fine, pretty easy, but it's just getting it to go. Any ideas how to remedy that? Give it a bleed? Adjust something or other?

Secondly, anyone know anything about Tachometer's since mine's bust? I've checked the wiring and it looks ok (Then again, wiring plugs is about my limit ) but no dancing needle when I rev the engine. I'd really like to know what I'm revving too aswell, because I'd like to avoid lunching the engine first time next Saturday.

Cheers in advance for any advice/help, and I'll buy you all a lovely refreshing beer

Alex

Sorry for my ignorance but what kind of car is it?

mind its a two day meeting

Oh, sorry, it's a Class 9 Grasser. I'm just wondering if there's something out of alignment somewhere in the system in terms of the clutch pedal, something binding at the top end of its travel.

Hi Alex
From memory everything was working properly and the only thing we hadn't done was bled the system. It's a brand new slave cylinder so that is definately not the problem. I would check for muck around the pivot on the clutch pedal and give that a squirt of WD40.
The only other way to relieve this would be to move the pivot points on either the pedal to master cylinder or at the slave cylinder to clutch release arm, eg the car may have 4 inch of pedal movement to 2 inch of master cylinder movement, if you changed this to 4 inch to 1.5 inch you'd get a easier push (these figures are plucked straight out my head and are for example only) and likewise at the other end, if the release arm is 3 inch long lengthening this would create an easier push. HOWEVER, you are limited by the amount of fluid the master cylinder can transfer to the slave cylinder, so be careful if you do go down this route as you may end up with a very light pedal and not enough release arm travel.
On the other hand, you could leave it as it is and watch your leg start to wobble as you wait on the line for the tapes to go up.

Hope to see you at the weekend
Ellmur

Thanks very much for the advice Murray. A squirt of WD40 has already aleviated the problem massivly, it's amazing what that stuff can do. It's a cracking machine and I can't wait to give it a run in anger on Saturday next. I'm not too concerned about the tach either to be honest, I've got the limiter sealed to the coil nicely so I shouldn't be in danger of ragging it to bits, so I'm more than content to play it all by ear in that regard.

Can't wait to get cracking (and probably embarrass myself somethign rotten ), so I'll see you at the weekend I hope.

Oh, one quick question, what sort of oil were you running before? I've been considering giving it a total change, but it'd be much easier to give it a top up, but I'd like to avoid mixing if at all possible.

Cheers and best of luck

It wasn't running synthetic, I think it was 10w40 ordinary oil (good stuff - not cheap ) or 15w40, either will do.
Don't remember an oil change on that car being a straightforward experience, think the sump gaurd has to come off. Mind and not fill it to the max on the dipstick - it'll just puke it back out again.
M

ellmur wrote:It wasn't running synthetic, I think it was 10w40 ordinary oil (good stuff - not cheap ) or 15w40, either will do.
Don't remember an oil change on that car being a straightforward experience, think the sump gaurd has to come off. Mind and not fill it to the max on the dipstick - it'll just puke it back out again.
M

Cheers

Oh and one last question (thanks for being so patient by the way), how much would you be looking for to sort out some vinyl numbers for me? I don't much fancy whitewash and marker pen on Saturday .

itl be good to see you out alex